The Short Answer
An oven makes heat through a single chain: a control tells a relay to power a bake element on an electric oven, or a glow-bar igniter to open the gas valve on a gas oven, and a temperature sensor closes the loop. A break anywhere in that chain leaves the cavity cold. The two most common failures are an open bake element and a weak gas igniter, both of which are straightforward to confirm with a meter and to replace.
Most Common Causes
- Open bake element. An electric element that has burned through no longer heats.
- Weak gas igniter. A glow-bar that lights but no longer draws enough current to open the valve.
- Drifting temperature sensor. A bad reading makes the control refuse to heat or shut down.
- Failed control relay. The board no longer switches power to the element.
- Tripped thermal limit. A safety cutout opened after an overheat and needs its cause found.
Notes by Brand
On Wolf and Thermador dual-fuel ovens, a weak bake igniter that glows without lighting is the classic no-heat call. On Miele and Gaggenau electric ovens, an F-code often points straight at the sensor or an element circuit. On Viking and La Cornue gas ovens, we verify the igniter draw and the safety valve. On Monogram and Dacor ovens, a GE-style fault code helps narrow the failure to the sensor or control before we open the cavity.
Symptom Reference
| What You See | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Electric oven stays cold | Open bake element or relay | Ohm-test element, test relay, replace failed part |
| Gas igniter glows, no flame | Weak igniter | Measure current draw, replace igniter |
| Oven throws a code | Sensor or control fault | Read code, verify with meter, replace part |
| Heats then shuts off | Tripped thermal limit | Find overheat cause, replace limit |
| Broil works, bake does not | Open bake element only | Replace the bake element |
Oven Cold Before Dinner?
Book a diagnosis. Diagnostic and travel fees, if applicable, are confirmed before the appointment and before repair approval.